International BirdFair is a rare sight that, up till 2022, we had solely heard tales of. So, Erik and I made a decision we must see it for ourselves. The primary time we skilled it, we flew into Leicester and took the brief drive over. Then, once we selected to return in 2023 to see if there was a distinction between the 2 years, we deliberate to fly out and in of Edinburgh in order that we might discover a brand new place. After we talked about this on our podcast, a number of emails got here in from listeners directing us to look right into a go to to Bass Rock. Once I lastly obtained round to investigating Bass Rock the week earlier than our journey, I noticed why it was on the prime of the lists.
Bass Rock, an island nestled within the Firth of Forth, is a testomony to nature’s grandeur and historical past’s resilience. Located on the japanese facet of Scotland, roughly three miles northeast of North Berwick, it’s the closest village from which boat journeys embark. The rock, reaching a peak of 350 toes at its peak, is a ‘volcanic plug,’ a solidified remnant of a volcano’s plumbing system that endures lengthy after the volcano has eroded away. The island’s historical past is as fascinating as its geology, having served as a sanctuary, a fort, a jail, and a lighthouse. It was final acquired in 1706 by Hew Hamilton-Dalrymple. Its attract has captivated and impressed generations. A go to to Bass Rock unveils the Bass Rock Lighthouse inbuilt 1902, the remnants of an historic chapel, and a symphony of squawking birds.
Birders flock to this haven, as it’s a sanctuary for over 150,000 breeding Northern Gannets, making it the world’s largest colony. Apparently, the Latin binomial for Northern Gannet is Morus bassanus, a reputation derived from their affiliation with the rock. The island is teeming with so many birds that their eggs and younger chicks had been as soon as harvested for meals. The Scottish Seabird Centre affords day by day expeditions to Bass Rock, every with its personal distinctive itinerary. We had the foresight to guide the Three Islands Seabird Seafari upfront, an exhilarating journey the place we’d see the seabirds round Lamb, Craigleith, and Bass Rock from a small inflatable boat. However sadly, we overslept our alarms, which I blame on jetlag. Regardless of a nerve-wracking drive from Edinburgh, we arrived to see the boat pulling out of the harbor with our two seats empty. So, we went into the workplace and had been capable of prepare the Seabird Catamaran Cruise for the next day. Thus, we launched into a highland journey, recognizing a Ring Ouzel, earlier than immersing ourselves within the bustling streets of downtown Edinburgh.
The subsequent day, we set additional alarm clocks and made it with loads of time to spare. The marina is quaint, with a discovery heart and some retailers. After we arrived, individuals had been lined as much as board the Seafari Explorer. It was a stupendous day to be out on the water, and very quickly, we had been cruising round Craigleith with Atlantic Puffins, Razorbills, Frequent Murres, and Black-legged Kittiwakes. All are at eye degree, because the island is lower than 150 toes excessive. The birds on this island face their very own challenges with Tree Mallow, a non-native plant that has endangered the puffin colony. The Scottish Seabird Centre helps a whole lot of volunteers within the effort to eradicate this species when it was first seen that the variety of puffins was declining.
Our captain then directed the boat in the direction of the actual showstopper: Bass Rock. The beehive of Northern Gannets got here into view, and towering cliffs turned extra outlined. 1000’s of Northern Gannets had been swirling round within the skies above our catamaran, clearly exhibiting why Sir David Attenborough declared it “one of many wildlife wonders of the world.” The steep partitions had been dotted with nesting birds and downy chicks about able to fledge.
Whereas researching this journey, there was a typical theme within the articles referring to the gannets: Avian Flu hit this colony arduous in 2022. On a single day, greater than 5,000 lifeless birds had been counted. Gannets breed after their fourth 12 months, so it is going to take years to get better from the devastation this illness brought about. An odd facet impact was seen by researchers – black irises. Gannets usually have pale blue eyes, and people with black irises have avian flu antibodies. The iris distinction was evident in shut people and, hopefully, an indication that the colony will persist on this illness.
We spent a few half-hour circumnavigating the rock and added European Shag, a number of puffins, and two Nice Black-backed Gulls. The acrid odor of the seabirds’ guano crammed the air as we toured alongside the steep cliffs. A couple of unfortunate (or fortunate) individuals needed to wipe drops off their shoulders. I loved a detailed have a look at the historic lighthouse and the decrepit chapel, a reminder that our go to is a quick second in humankind’s lengthy historical past with this place.
We motored away from the island in the direction of the mainland, and the busy gannets turned smaller and smaller. The white prime of the rock got here into view, painted with the droppings of millennia of feathered residents. I hardly keep in mind the journey again as my head was swirling with visions of gannets flying excessive within the breeze. After a fast chunk to eat at a spot up the street from the marina, we jumped within the automobile and headed to International BirdFair.
One thing I like about birding is the available sharing of knowledge. I can point out someplace we’re occurring our podcast or on-line, and somebody will shortly share their experiences. Hopefully, I can preserve it going and might need helped you on a future journey. This was undoubtedly a visit to recollect, and we’ve others to thank for mentioning it.
Right here extra about this journey on Hannah and Erik Go Birding.
